Ama Dablam (22,493′)

Ama Dablam (22,493′)

(44 days)

AMG President, Sean Gaffney's, camp on the way to the Ama Dablam summit. -Sean Gaffney

Ama Dablam (22,493 ft.) is one of the classic technical climbs at altitude in the world. It is a strikingly beautiful mountain located in the Everest region of Nepal. Our route follows the Southwest Ridge. It is demanding and involves sustained technical rock and snow/ice climbing. Knowledge of climbing at altitude, and technical climbing experience are requisite for this trip. The rewards equal the challenges; the route offers outstanding climbing with amazing vistas! The trip begins in Kathmandu. We will have a couple of days before flying to Lukla to explore the cities fascinating temples and markets. From Katmandu we fly to Lukla at 9,000 ft to begin our trek into the mountain. While trekking we will visit and explore many of the Everest regions interesting sights and places including the village of Namche Bazaar, and the Thyangboche Monastery. We will help ourselves to prepare, and acclimatize for Ama Dablam with a warm up climb of Island Peak, which is a fantastic climb in its own right. The trip is planned to last 44 days, but we may be done earlier. The itinerary allows us ample time for weather, rest, and acclimatization days. Our trips are designed to provide our guests with a positive high altitude experience.


KATHMANDU: Kathmandu is the starting and ending point for our treks and climbs in Nepal. It is a fascinating city with lots of interesting sights. While in Kathmandu we will visit the Hindu and Buddist temples of Syhumbunath, Bodanath, and Pashupatinath as well as the historic Durbar Square.

LUKLA: We fly into and out of this small village located at the base of the Khumbu valley at 9,000 ft. The village bustles with porters, and the Sherpa people, organizing expeditions and the transport of goods and supplies to villages further up the valley.

Prayer flags on the Buddhist stupa “Bodhnath” in Kathmandu.

NAMCHE BAZAAR: The village of Namche is the cultural center of the Khumbu. It is also the hub for trade and commerce in the valley. The weekly market between lowland traders and the highland Sherpa people occurs here. Traders drive their yak teams from as far away as Tibet to participate in the market! We will spend a couple of days here acclimatizing and exploring the area.

THYANGBOCHE MONASTERY: This Buddhist monastery is the religious center of the Khumbu. Many of the Sherpa’s most important religious festivals and ceremonies occur here. The monastery is home to a school where young men from throughout the area come to study. We will spend another day here visiting the monastery, acclimatizing, and taking in the incredible views of Thamserku, Kangtaga, Ama Dablam, and Mt Everest.

Nepalese holy man.

IMJATSE CLIMB (Island Peak): Our route is either the south ridge or east face; both are moderate snow and ice climbing. The route and summit provide stunning views of the surrounding peaks including Everest. This climb will provide us with an important base in our acclimatization for Ama Dablam.

AMA DABLAM CLIMB: We will climb the Southwest Ridge via a series of 3 camps to the summit at 22,493 ft. The route is very exposed; we will use fixed lines between all of the camps. Lower on the ridge the climbing is generally more on rock. As we progress up the mountain it becomes snow and ice climbing. The varied nature and quality of the climbing, combined with the dramatic setting of the route, create a world class alpine climbing experience! Please contact us for more information, or if you have any questions regarding trip requirements or appropriate personal training programs.

OUR GUIDES: Alaska Mountain Guides & International Inc. instructors and guides are professionals. They bring a wealth of experience from guiding throughout Alaska and the world to every trip. All of our guides are also climbing instructors who genuinely enjoy sharing their knowledge. This is an important consideration for individuals who have not spent a lot of time at altitude and are interested in learning the safest, and most efficient ways to climb. Your safety and enjoyment are their primary goals.

PULSE OXIMETERS: Pulse Oximeters are small, precise, instruments that essentially give a digital readout of how you are acclimatizing. With this information we can make more informed decisions as to how we can best tailor the trip to meet your individual needs. We use them every step of the way, on every trip to altitude. In our opinion all high altitude guides should have one to help assure your safety.


INCLUDED: Transfers, hotels in Kathmandu, all climbing & trekking permits, local transportation, park fees, porters and yaks, food on the trek or climb, group climbing and camping equipment, American guides, and Sherpa support.

NOT INCLUDED: Food in restaurants in Kathmandu, bottled water, soda, alcohol, airfare to/from Kathmandu, airfare to/from Lukla (approx. $200 and we will make all of the arrangements).

LENGTH: 40 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu. We also offer a variety of other climbs and treks throughout Nepal. Please contact us if you would like any additional information.

DATES/PRICES: Please see our schedule for current dates and prices information.

Chorten on the way to Everest base camp.